Peru: Machu Picchu

Time was running out as we had booked a 4 day trek for Quilor’Riti (this will be a separate post) so we left our car in Lima and flew to Cusco. That was a huge mistake. Cusco is at 3600m and we only had 2.5 days to acclimate before starting our big trek. We had […]

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Colombia: The Only Risk Is Wanting To Stay

Colombia has exceeded any expectations we had. Its reputation, a consequence of its troubled history, has long marked it as a dangerous, drug-producing, guerilla-filled country that is out of bounds. As you can imagine we received many warnings. Sadly, it takes a lot longer to change people’s opinions of a country than it is to […]

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Panama: Last Stop in Central America

Entering Panama meant the end of the road in Central America. For those of you that don’t know, there is no road that connects Panama to Colombia. It is the one gap on the Pan-American Highway, and a considerable one if you consider that there are a hundred miles of swamp and jungle between where […]

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Sometimes you really should just stay down.

Leaving Batopilas is just as scenic as entering, but several orders of magnitude easier. I’ve been given directions on how to find Korareachi, and hopefully complete my Quest for that delectable lechugilla. Lost and I snake our way up and down the canyonsides, the gravel road progressively improving. I too have improved, I’m pleased to … Continue reading →

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Icarus Complex

Fun is a relative term. That’s why some people’s favourite roads are what others would call “bad”. The road, to use the term loosely, to Batopilas from Urique is one of those roads I think everyone can agree is bad, no matter how much fun you have on it. I have never dropped my bike … Continue reading →

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Take me to the Wilderness

Many years ago not long after jen and i first met, she told me “Take me to the wilderness.  If I’m ever stuck inside my head, or so low that i cant find a way out of it.  Simply take me away and into nature.  That’ll make it better.” Sadly, …

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Stop motion living

I’m staying at Entre Amigos, a beautiful name for a lonely place on the edge of town. Peanuts, squash, lemons and grapefruits all grow abundantly in the orchard where my hammock is strung up. My only company here is Tomas the groundskeeper with his sheepish smile and old work jeans labelled Dolce & Gabbana. It’s … Continue reading →

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The soft side of the ragged edge

Cold droplets on my face wake me instantly. It is drizzling and the mosquito net is jewelled with water. The pines are grey under cloudy morning; light seeps in from beyond the horizon where the sun has already risen. I pack quickly in the early chill, breaking my fast with single-serving peanut...
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The best paths, like the best stories, are passed on only by word of mouth

I’m done in Page. Strike gold in the breakfast buffet – today they have a bacon tray. And I’m off. From the desert rise strange forms and images to occupy my mind with questions as I ride towards Flagstaff. I’ve been fortunate to find myself invited to Arizona’s...
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If all your friends jumped off a 90 foot cliff…

First order of business in Page is to explore; it’s actually an interesting place to walk around. While chatting with Ron, owner of a local coffee shop, I ask about The Steps, a hike Korey told me about last night. He insists on getting my family’s contact info in case I don’t...
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Bittersweet

Wild creatures rise with the sun. I pack up my gear in near darkness, sit again to listen to the canyonwind lullaby, watch the sky lighten. I realize I want to spend weeks here. I need to spend weeks here. This whole part of the world, it soothingly overwhelms my wanderlust with its endlessly...
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Sublime

Today I reach the Grand Canyon. My usual indirect trajectory takes me through Horseshoe Bend, Vermillion Cliffs, Marble Canyon, damn impressive places to behold. With each new sight I am inspired and concerned – this journey is strengthening my wanderlust even as it appeases it. Like so...
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