Sunday, 30 November 2014

Praia em Peniche



Acordamos perto das sete da manhã na terça-feira, ainda estávamos em Lisboa, vimos pela internet que o campeonato de surf ia começar e pegamos estrada sentido Peniche. Apesar da chuva que nos acompanhou no fim de semana em Lisboa o tempo já estava aberto e chegando em Peniche encontramos um clima muito legal, estacionamento cheio, …

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Firenze, capital da arte e cultura

Grécia, um lugar de histórias e encantos

Praia, Salinas, Equador! 27/09/2013



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A bela Óbidos



“Vocês precisam ir a Óbidos, é lindo!” – Essa foi a frase do nosso amigo Marcio Fu, fotografo do jornal Estado de São Paulo e que estava em Peniche fazendo a cobertura da etapa mundial de surf que acontecia na cidade. Diante da previsão de ondas fracas nos próximos dias e a postergação das próximas …

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Praia em Peniche

Bem vindo a Portugal e ao Porto

Chegando a capital eslovena 20/07/2014



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Northern Peru- Indiana Jones Adventures



We chose to cross into Peru via the small border of La Balsa which is in an Amazon basin from which we would climb back into the Andes. The road from Ecuador to the border was an adventure in itself; single track dirt road with 1000 foot drop offs. However, we were lucky and it […]
The post Northern Peru- Indiana Jones Adventures appeared first on Song of the Road.

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The last rides in Peru



Time to push south.  We hear that the rainy season starts around the first of November in Bolivia and if we want to ride the famous Death Road I’d prefer it be dry.  Some last photos of this beautiful country…Peru… Read More ›

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Nairobi



Roofdieren zaten er niet in het Hell’s Gate National Park dus mocht je er ook fietsen en na ruim 15.000km in de auto vonden wij dat een strak plan! En leuk is het zeker om op je fietsje langs zebra’s, giraffen en impala’s te rijden.. We sliepen twee nachten bij Lake Naivasha op twee verschillende campings (http://www.fishermanscamp.com/ en http://www.campcarnelleys.com/) waar de nijlpaarden ‘s avonds en ‘s nachts tot bijna onder onze daktent kwamen (even oppassen bij het plassen ‘s nachts). […]

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Voor bezorgde ouders en onze eigen gemoedsrust.....



Dear Berry van Welzen, Thanks  for your Email well received.I have enquired from the Police concerning the Isiolo- Marsabit – Moyale route and advised that the route is safe.  They further advised that it would be wise to get the very current security brief enroute as you travel Northwards i.e at Isiolo Police Station, Archer’s Police Station and  Marsabit Police station. Wish you a safe safari. Kind Regards,Steve Kiragu […]

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Saturday, 29 November 2014

Reflection on Thailand



Now that I’ve been back to work for a week and almost recovered from the journey home in an aluminium tube I’d like to share my reflections of Thailand. First it was a fantastic adventure, relatively simply we transported ourselves to another continent with a totally different culture and language. The Thai people are amongst the friendliest and polite I have met, at no time did we feel unsafe or worried for our personal safety or possessions, their culture is one of honesty. The driving however leaves a bit to be desired, it was put to me that any road signs, markings or rules are merely a suggestion and not to be taken too seriously. The result of this is that you need to keep your wits about you, the Thai drivers are not aggressive or inconsiderate just a bit daft really, they don’t understand the danger they are putting themselves and other in. The small mini busses who traipse the tourists around the country are the worst offenders, blind corners, into the face of oncoming traffic are normal overtaking manoeuvres for them which makes life for the others unpredictable. I would never get into one of these minibuses although thankfully we didn’t see any accidents, I suppose if you sat in the front seat and hit the guy every time he thought about making a dangerous move that might work but he’d be pretty beaten up by the time you got anywhere.
The people as I’ve said, polite friendly and very pleasant, the biggest issue they face is returning to democracy, the head of the Army and therefore the current president has decided just this week that there will be no return to democracy until at least 2016, having watched one of his weekly speeches on TV I suspect trouble ahead, you know trouble is brewing when the best he can offer is “for those who disagree, we have got to get on, don’t disagree or think too much, instead of listening to the troublemakers just immerse yourselves in TV Soaps and be happy”. The other thing I have to mention is the sex trade, we were in the more remote areas so thankfully saw nothing of this issue most of the time but it was evident in Chiang Mai, always when you get poorer people trying to survive with an influx of rich westerners the prostitution thing will happen, sad that these girls have to turn to this but it is survival, sadder that visitors to the country take advantage although I understand the argument that it’s a business arrangement and these girls and their families would potentially starve otherwise, all I can say is it’s not a good situation. Like cocaine users the users of prostitutes are invariably the cause of deaths and heartache as the gang leaders fight for dominance. Having said all that it isn’t obvious in the North and only my social conscience brought it into my field of focus.
The roads are fantastic and the north of Thailand is an adventure playground for motorcycling, the other great thing is you are brining much needed tourist dollars to areas which normally don’t see many tourists, the costs are cheap for us, a meal in general is less than £2, Hotels £6 – £36 for the range we were in and all were well up to standard with en suite facilities, beer was just under £2 for a big bottle, Petrol about half of Euro prices and big bike hire less than £25 a day.
If you can stand the inhumane air travel thing then I’d thoroughly recommend it, Temples, elephants, great roads, great people, what’s not to like?
Enjoy some more photos….







Temple at night Chiang Mai









Nice and ancient Temple Wat Chedi Luang









Same place









and again









Spotted in a back street, cool Triumph cub









Enjoying tea despite the rain, note the waterproof 









Mae Hong Son Loi Krathong festival









Last minute adjustments at Tony’s big bikes









Contemplating the day ahead at Mae Sariang 









Temple in Mae Sariang









Pit stop in the rain









Cool cafe









Mae Hong Son Loi Krathong festival









Woo Hoo enjoying the sun in deep contemplation









Doi Mae Salong









Laos boat plying trade on the Meekong. Shrouded in early morning mist









Not sure, we were kinda lost here









Are we on the right road?









Stop for a break and check the maps and GPS









Local guy showing off his dinner on Phayao









The white temple in Chiang Rai









Finally a well deserved cup of tea , an end to our tour!












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De Wondere Wereld van Opuwo



We wilden weer kilometers en afstanden, stof happen! Swakopmund hield ons op vanwege de lekke band. Nadat Tyremart door onze injectie weer een doorstart kon maken zijn we met 4 nieuwe banden op pad gegaan. De zeehondenkolonie bij Cape Cross zijnde een must-see langs de route. Het bleek één grote lugubere kraamafdeling, de Bradt guide […]

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Friday, 28 November 2014

Trilha sonora do momento



Sempre que escutamos essa música, nos arrepiamos. Essa letra, com certeza, nos faz refletir…   Paciência – de Lenine Mesmo quando tudo pede Um pouco mais de calma Até quando o corpo pede Um pouco mais de alma A vida não para Enquanto o tempo Acelera e pede pressa Eu me recuso, faço hora Vou na valsa A vida é tão …

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From Brazil to French Guiana



Anybody with a bit of knowledge of this part of the world might realise that we’ve headed up the coast of Brazil, going North then West, rather fast. We had a few good reasons for this: 1) Brazil only allows a 3 month stay (unless you can apply for an extension) and our time was running out. Plus we wanted to have a little of our 3 months left to re-enter Brazil to get from Guyana to Venezuela (later on). 2) The last 110kms out of Brazil, going to French Guiana is dirt, and we wanted to pass it before the start of the wet season, or, if we failed that, we might need those extra days we’d already been keeping. 3) French Guiana has a major rocket launching facility and we hope to see a rocket launch scheduled for early December. 

So, from Belem we took a cargo ferry to Macapa. I’ve written about the process of sourcing a suitable boat on my Brazil Overlanding notes page for any interested overlanders. 

The cargo boat took 40 hours (2 nights) to cross the mouth of the amazon river, passing various islands on the way. H insisted that he’d sleep in Blac, I took our hammock to the top deck where everyone else was sleeping (about 10 men, almost all staff). 

On a couple of occasions H was in Blac (the camper), down on the deck, when we hit very rough waters. It was scary for both of us and H says that waves hit the back of the camper and water came in. I get sea sick, so I was taking ginger pills and just holding on (ginger is wonderful, I wasn’t sick). 

The scenery was interesting, lots of people live on the waterfront in basic shacks and the main industry was obviously timber. We also saw many boats carrying baskets and making regular stops. These, we believe, were collecting Açai. It’s a miracle food from the amazon that you’ll find I’m many western health shops. 

On the wildlife side we saw dolphins twice. We think the first sighting was a pink river dolphin!

When we got to Santana (Macapa) we had to wait all day to unload. First they had to unload, by hand, enough stock (rice, salt, flour, eggs, corn, farinha) for  H to manoeuvre Blac into a suitable position, and then we had to wait for the tide to go out enough. Finally we unloaded, and discovered that across the river was a very pretty historical area of protected houses connected by boardwalks. 

Macapa itself was a pleasantly surprising city. We visited the fort and had Açai (it really does make you feel good), before starting north west again. 

Late the next day we arrived in Oiapoque, the place from which you get your passport stamped and leave Brazil. From Oiapoque to Grench Guiana they’ve built a wonderful bridge, but, years later they still haven’t opened it, so you have to pay a ferry to take you across! 

At immigration (Policia Federal) we discovered that despite rushing to come North we’d been wrongly processed as exiting when we entered São Paulo airport. We talked things over with the man and eventually he was able to fix things a we were allowed to exit Brazil (where we officially never were!).

By now it was just on 6pm and the ferry was closing for the day. Oh well, at €200 for the boat we hoped that by waiting until the next day we could share the expense, so we waited. But then we found out that only 3-5 vehicles cross each week and the next reservation was in 3 days time, so late on the next  day we paid the 200, and crossed. 

The ferry journey from Oiapoque to St Georges is actually upriver and takes about 45 minutes, and the scenery is nice. 
In St Georges we got directions and headed straight to immigration, but they’d just closed (6pm)! So we parked by the river overnight and enjoyed the scene with a few drinks and sardines on toast. We’d left Brazil, and made it to French Guiana!

photos:
We are loaded and ready to leave Belem, but they are still stacking freight.

EVen a basuc lifestyle in Brazil seems to have a satellite TV dish!

Our path, acording to the GPS,  through the mouth ofthe Amazon River

The lovely historical boardwalk area of Santana (Macapa)

H, testing the hole in the bridge before we drive across, on the road to Oiapoque. 

The final ferry from Brazil to French Guiana! 







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Uganda en treiterende olifanten



In Gisenyi in Rwanda verbleven we in een lodge (Paradise Malahide) aan Lake Kivu en vlakbij de kerk. Daardoor werden we gedurende de dag getrakteerd op gezang van het gospel-koor in de kerk én van de vissers op het water! En ook in Gisenyi werd onze auto (twee ochtenden op rij) gewassen.. We zitten dus midden in de “kleine” regentijd (die valt in oktober en november) wat betekent dat de onverharde wegen vaak veranderen in modderpoelen waardoor de auto er in no-time verschrikke […]

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De afgelegde weg tot nu toe...



[…]

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Galápagos Montage



When we returned from the Galapagos and I downloaded my photos there were 1,313 of them. I managed to get that down to 500 or so, but we decided that the few I posted in the last update didn’t really do the trip justice. So we put together a little slideshow with a few more […]

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Thursday, 27 November 2014

Mkomazi Magic



  Tanzanian internet is not at its best this time of year it seems, apologies for the delay in updating. The further south we go, the more of a burden Emma becomes… On a South African passport, I’m crossing borders for free whereas Emma still has to pay $50! It was an easy enough drive […]

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Country number 17! Brazil



Heading south again in Argentina saved a lot of miles in Brazil to get to the Canyon routes south of Florianopolis. We headed back down the 14 and then across on the 17 to cross at Bernardo de Irigoyen in … Continue reading →

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Pisac, Peru



After you’ve visited Machu Picchu, most other ruins might not seem as impressive. Sort of like having the best meal ever and then going for a PB&J…. We leave Cusco after a few lazy days and decide to head into… Read More ›

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Thankful…



As of Thanksgiving, I will have been gone from home for 17 months and 2 days.  I never planned to be gone this long, and my journey has taken me to places and feelings I never expected.  Most of all,… Read More ›

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Ahhh… the Galápagos Islands



The Galapagos islands are famous for their wildlife. And now, having visited we understand that the reputation is well deserved. With marine iguanas so numerous and unafraid that you have to consciously try to avoid stepping on them, it feels like you’re in a zoo but without the cages. Many thanks to Rachel from Think […]

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Nosso GPS pelas estradas do Peru



Tiramos essa foto de nosso GPS enquanto viajávamos pelos andes peruanos.   Então perguntamos: será que essas placas de estrada fazem jus a realidade ou são exageradas???   Vejam as estradas!!!  

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Wednesday, 26 November 2014

Estrada da Morte



Nos precipícios da Estrada da Morte – Bolívia, na boa companhia de pneus Atturo.

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Chapter 10



After leaving Turkey and entering the Great Caucasus, Georgia was my first country to visit. As you’ve noticed, I’m not using plural yet because Rochelle joined me in Georgia two weeks later.
As I entered at the beginning of November, the weather was already in winter mode. Heavy rain and strong winds welcomed me in Batumi, […]

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Sometimes you really should just stay down.



Leaving Batopilas is just as scenic as entering, but several orders of magnitude easier. I’ve been given directions on how to find Korareachi, and hopefully complete my Quest for that delectable lechugilla. Lost and I snake our way up and down the canyonsides, the gravel road progressively improving. I too have improved, I’m pleased to … Continue reading →

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Tuesday, 25 November 2014

The (real) Adventure begins



Which way to Mexico? After dropping the kids at the airport we find ourselves a campground where we stay for 4 nights. The sites are minuscule but the internet works well and the spa is hot. We’re happy. We’ve been living with a minor problem with our engine for some time but I think now, […]

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You Better Belize It!



Motoring out of Corozol, we were in high spirits. We were restocked, we’d made it through the border without issue, we were back in an English speaking country [which meant Ike could actually do some of the conversing!], and the car issues were either resolved or slated to be resolved. Heading to Sarteneja from Corozol via boat is easy: it’s across the bay and only a half hour ride. Via car though, it’s several hours and you have two options: down to Orange Walk on the ‘nicer’ road and then all the way back up on a bumpy road, or you can take the direct route over an older road. We opted for the older road [naturally!] (and per the recommendation of the hostel owner). There are two small rivers you need to cross on the way, letting us board our first ferries since leaving Vancouver Island in British Columbia! These were a bit different, considering they were hand-cranked. To be fair, the crossings were a bit smaller too. Technically, passengers are required to disembark from the vehicles while the driver onboards them, so Bethany joined a middle-aged gentleman alongside the ferry while I drove on. The ferrymen were pretty no-nonsense, starting off as soon as the last car was on, not bothering to tell the passengers to hop on. Bethany was paying attention and got on as soon as she could, but the middle-aged guy wasn’t as diligent and had to do a little hop to make it onto the ferry before he got left behind.




“Is it very difficult?” I asked the ferrymen. “Oh, it’s not so bad! Here! Give it a try!” I obliged him, and really, it wasn’t that bad! I let him know as much, remarking how smooth it was too [no doubt thanks to the copious amounts of grease applied to the crank]. “Oh sure, but it can be tiring by the end of the day.” he replied. Knowing it was open 24 hours, I ventured, “8 hour shifts then?” “12” came the reply. “Surely it’s not that busy through, right?” I exclaimed, thinking of the other route on the road that wasn’t as rugged. “No, most days it’s back and forth without stop” he said, having a seat as Bethany came over and started cranking as well. The least we owed these guys was a couple minutes respite we figured, so we continued to heave and ho as we pulled the ferry and it’s four cars across the river. I relinquished my duty to one of the ferryman [admittedly with some happiness, as my arms were already getting tired, although the ferryman assured us they only hurt for the first day of doing it] so the cars could back up to help lift the ferry front higher into the air to ensure better docking. Disembarking took us over a very large bump, but then it was only a few short miles to the second ferry. [This time we skipped volunteering to assist]




This makes the road look not all that bad.  DECEPTIVE PHOTO
Turning onto the ‘high’ road to Sarteneja [the low road floods during rainy season] we began the 20-some mile trek back that would take around 90 minutes. It’s hard to get an idea of what the plan was for the road: the potholes are consistent, deep, and can be quite large. The road is dirt, but sections are semi-paved, but appears to almost be a bedrock covering. That would make the most sense if true, because it’s haphazardly applied asphalt if not, often-times petering out to little trails [instead of just having a clear demarcation of ending], frequently uneven and even more rugged than the dirt sections of road. We were happy to approach the end of it though, as it had become increasingly rugged and difficult to find any real path that avoided the potholes. The GPS showed us within just a few kilometers of our destination when we both started to hear a squeaking sound that was without a doubt a new sound. Or at least a loud sound now. It had been gradually building up over the last fifteen minutes every time we cleared a pothole with our rear tires. Given how much crap we have in the back though, we both had assumed it was just some bit of gear rolling around, but it now became clear that no, this was the car itself groaning. Being so close to our destination, we didn’t want to pull over, both of us with a subconscious assumption that pulling over and validating the issue before we got there would prevent us from finishing the drive, instead willing the issue to remain abated until we arrived. As we pulled up to Backpacker’s Paradise, we turned off the car and got out with a creeping sense of dread. The first place we both knew to look was the same place the man had told us was in need of immediate repair when we were getting our tires rotated. Sure enough, looking under the vehicle our eyes found this staring straight back at us:


That’ll buff right out
Ice gripped my stomach. Sure, we’d made it out here in one piece and hadn’t broken down alongside the road, but now we were here; here being a small fishing village of maybe two-thousand people, with the only road leading out the very road that had shattered and broken Sweetcakes in the first place. Our gloomy demeanor swelled for a few minutes as we walked our way into the office and then crashed into the extremely positive and upbeat nature of Natalie, the woman behind the counter. As we completed our check-in process, we ventured to ask Natalie if there happened to be a mechanic in town, as our vehicle was in need of some help. “Sure, yeah! No problem” she replied. We tremulously told her ‘thanks’ but that we didn’t wanna deal with it until tomorrow as it was already late and we both needed some rum. As Natalie showed us around, she pointed out all of the fruit trees on the property and told us to feel free to make use of any of them as we needed. Sweet and sour oranges, bananas, mangoes, lemongrass, coconut, sapote all were available to us, the citrus were ripe and waiting for a hand to pull it down. Bethany and I wasted no time grabbing a couple of oranges to flesh out our rum drinks. The community room’s hammocks and kitchen invited us to call it home that evening, and we tried to forget our unease behind delicious food and drink, eventually calling it a night in the tent right next to the building [half the price to sleep outside than in]. Natalie even found the last two mangoes of the season and shared them with us – best mangoes we’ve ever had! We were the only guests at the hostel that night.
“Here’s what the car looks like…” I told Natalie, showing her a picture of the broken rear control arm under the vehicle. “Oh, so you need to weld it, yea?” she said upon seeing the picture. “That’s no problem. Julio does that all the time!” Bethany and I became cautiously optimistic after hearing this.
“So how long has the hostel been here?” I asked Natalie. “Oh, about 10 years.” “And how long have you worked here.” “About 10 years.” “Wait…so…is this your hostel?” “Yeah!” Over the next few minutes I learned that Natalie, moved to Belize to work at the Shipstern biological reserve next door after she got her Master’s degree. [“I had no idea where Belize was when I applied to the internship. I thought it was in Asia!”] From there she decided she wanted to open her own hostel, buying land next to the reserve and starting from scratch. [“I got lost in the jungle…”]
“So..I need coconut water with the rice and beans for Belize style rice and beans, right?” I asked Lenny, the manager who helps Natalie. “No no no, coconut milk, not water! Come on in, I’ll give you some powder for it we have.” Halfway to a real Belizean breakfast! Bethany next asked me to try and find some eggs while she boiled the rice and beans. I started walking into town, the light from the morning sun behind me.
“Welcome to Sarteneja!” the map on the edge of town proudly proclaimed. Happy to have a map to help me find a shop to buy eggs from, I looked for the ‘YOU ARE HERE’ red dot. No luck. Ok, well, let’s see if I can figure out where I am. Looking around, I notice the Backpacker’s Paradise hostel marked on it, and from there can find the intersection on the edge of town I must be standing at. I can see on the map that the road to my right is south street, and the road to my left is Tulip. Looking up to my left, the road doesn’t have a sign with the name. Looking over my shoulder to my right, I can see that the road does have a sign….and it reads ‘Tulip’. Thoroughly confused at this point, I decide to pretend the map is correct and take off towards where it says a store should be. Two blocks later, there’s no store and I’m walking back to square one. Looking at the map again, I decide to say ‘Screw it’ and just take off down the main road figuring I’ll find something at some point. Continuing my stroll, I saw a meat shop off to the right. Rolling on over, I notice that their wares are painted on the outside of the small swing-out doors on the house adjunct they sell from. Eggs were not painted on. I went on up anyway, and poked my head inside and just looked around to see if there were eggs anyway. No dice. Back to the road. A bit further I see a larger one story building that has two doors thrown open with a woman standing outside looking in. Despite having no signage whatsoever, I figured it wouldn’t hurt to look, and lo and behold, here we go!
Belize is an English speaking country, but everyone speaks two or three languages, augmenting their English with Spanish and/or Creole, and the truly multi-cultural also speak an indigenous Mayan language. Hearing the woman ahead of me use Spanish, I followed suit for the eggs, and happily walked home with a little baggie with them tucked inside. Belizean breakfast complete!

Hopping on the bikes, Bethany, Natalie, and I rode into town to track down Julio, the mechanic. Swinging by his place, we notice there aren’t any vehicles there. Natalie asks for Julio, but the older woman [his mother, we learn] let’s us know he isn’t around. She takes off to find someone with his phone number, and as we’re tracking that person down we learn he’d just left to butcher a pig. #centralamerica

Things could have been worse….
We make our way back to the hostel, give Julio a call, and wait for him to show up.
A long, low whistle escapes Julio’s lips as he looks at the underside of Sweetcakes. “That’s a big problem, yeah. Going to need to drop the gas tank to fix that properly.” This actually heartened Bethany and I, as we’d stumbled across an online forum with a thread regarding the exact same issue we had and read that dropping the gas tank was pretty much a necessity. Julio told us Sarteneja didn’t have any place that sold flat iron and that he’d need his buddy [conveniently also named Julio] to drive him up to ‘Little Belize’, a small Mennonite community, to pick it up. The job would take at least a day to complete, but as we hashed out prices we realized he was charging less to do the full day’s work than he was charging for the materials and the drive to pick them up.
C’est la vie we figured. We looked at the calendar and guessed that based on what we wanted to do, and when Julio could work on stuff, we didn’t really have anything to do until Monday. A vast weekend of freshly juiced oranges, rum, and hammock swinging awaited us.

And the best damn beer in central America











Sweetcakes resting place while we waited to get her fixed


The oranges are ripe when they’re still green. If they’re orange, they’re rotten we learned


On one of our walks around town we came upon what can only be called an “Ant Hurricane”… a solid mass of ants swirling clockwise. The core was about a foot in diameter, with ants spiraling in/out for another couple of feet. We didn’t have our camera with us, but here’s a similar pic we found online.
Just as getting into Sarteneja was a pain, so too is getting out to Caye [pronounced: “Key”] Caulker a bit difficult. There were two options: 1) take the water taxis: much quicker but much more expensive. 2) Bus to Belize City and then taxi out, but back down that awful road. Belize’s public bus system is pretty extensive, and comprised of a fleet of Blue Bird buses. If you’re under 40, you may recall that the same company that makes American School buses. After their life is over in the USA, they get booted to the south. Which is fine, but if you’re over 5’2”, it’s not exactly the most comfortable. Imagining my prior experiences on those buses, with the bumpy road on top of it, I said we should go ahead and pay through the nose to take the boat.
Nat’s dogs decided that they were going to give us a fine escort on the way to the pier the following morning. Not content to simply make sure we made it safely, they felt compelled to range out and around, investigating the other dogs and in general causing havoc along the way. Anyone that wassleeping prior to us coming by was quickly awoken by intense barking by the other dogs. They went so far as to accompany us to the pier and wait with us while we waited for the boat.
While we waited, we struck up a conversation with the other groups there, all non-Belizean. There was a Canadian couple who had stopped over for the night after coming down from Corozol, who let us know the boat cost the same regardless of the distance you were riding it. There were also two Brits, Steve and Ryan, who were on a long backpacking trip and were presently volunteering at WildTracks animal sanctuary near Sarteneja.
“Yeah, I got set up with two baby monkeys. I just spend time making sure they eat, playing with them, keeping them busy.” Steve informed us. “Yeah, and since they’re supposed to become increasingly independent, when they’re adults you spend less time with them. Which is how I ended up with 17.” Ryan echoed. A look passed between them and both seemed to acknowledge that Ryan was getting the raw end of the deal. That sentiment was doubly enforced when Ryan showed us his finger where one of the adult monkeys had bit down and gone right on through the fingernail. “Got off quite lucky, to be honest.” he said nonchalantly, as I struggled valiantly to keep my breakfast in my stomach. How’d we beat the Brits in the Revolutionary War again?
The ride to San Pedro on Ambergis Caye was uneventful but bumpy. Walking across the town from one dock to another, we found our other boat and killed some time at a smoothie shop, talking with a Brit who lived in Canada for a decade about how great Saskatchewan is. Amen Brother!Caye Caulker is billed as the chill, backpacker-y alternative to Ambergis Caye. Stepping off the boat, we couldn’t imagine how it must be over along the coast in San Pedro, as it was plenty touristy here too.






“Is Elma home?” We inquired as we made our way back into the Sandy Lane hostel area. “Yeah, just go all the way back to that white house with the green trim” we were told. As we approached that house, we asked again, and two men who hithero had been obscured by shadow under the house spoke up and told us to go inside. We stepped into the kitchen, a pressure cooker hissing every few seconds with escaping steam and an LED light periodically flashing on the rice cooker. Elma was the proprietor of the establishment and let us know we could have a private room with double bed and shared bathroom for $20 BZE [$10 US]. We happily took it and dropped our stuff off.

Caye Caulker doesn’t have much public beach-front, instead most of it is associated with either a hotel or private business that launches their boat from the piers, making it difficult to find a place to hang out under the blue sky that afternoon. As Bethany and I were kicking around the idea of finding a place to start putting back happy hour drinks, we instead saw a place with a decent amount of beach space near the end of the town that was closed on Monday. Many places in Caye Caulker were, so we decided to be true bums and wander into one of the several convenience stores and pick up a bottle of 1 Barrel rum [Belize’s finest, coming in at $7US/bottle] and a container of pineapple juice. Ripping off the top of the juice, we quickly rehydrated after the earlier swimming we’d done, and promptly refilled the container back to full with the rum. Classy? No. Delicious? Yes. The sun was setting behind us, but the seats were comfortable, the drinking good, and the sky still pretty.
“Just keep running into you, don’t we?!” We heard over the waves, shattering the reverie we’d built up with the soft hum and hiss of the ocean and the buzz of the rum. A huge grin split my face as I looked over and saw Sean striding over to us holding a fishing reel and looking thoroughly pleased. We learned T was out on a snorkeling trip but Sean had spent the afternoon giving fishing a shot. [only bonefish so far he told us]
We agreed to meet up for dinner and happy hour a bit later. Returning to our books, it was only a minute before we heard someone speak up from behind us. “Ok guys! I’m here!” Confused, we turned around, and saw a guy getting off his bicycle with a couple of tupperware boxes. “I’m here guys!” “Oh, sorry, we’re meeting our friend for dinner.” “Yeah? So? Have a meat pie. Guys, there’s no ambulance on the island. I can’t be responsible if you don’t eat something and collapse from hunger!” Bravo sir, bravo. Still trying to ignore him, our resistance faded as soon as he said he had oatmeal cookies. Then we were holding them, as well as banana bread, and coconut cake. Well done indeed. Five minutes later another man on a bike was selling homemade cinnamon rolls. “Sorry, we just bought coconut bread and oatmeal cookies!” we apologized. “It’s alright man, I’l be here tomorrow. Here, smell!” and he shoved a cinnamon roll right under Bethany’s nose. Mmmmmm.

Bambooze [fantastic name] had high recommendations, seats that were swings, and a happy hour that was 2 drinks for $7 BZE. We caught up over panty rippers and curry, and started the conversation back up the next morning as we bumped into each other again at breakfast. T and Sean had informed us about a House of Fryjacks place that was right next door to us. Fryjacks, to the uninitiated, are God’s gift to food. Essentially a deep-fried tortilla, the best versions are the stuffed ones, which take the idea but kick it up to divine levels by filling them with scrambled eggs, cheese, meat, beans. It’s like a breakfast burrito, only it leaves you feeling happy instead of depressed.

The weather had started to turn, as we’d expected, so we were on the fence on if we’d try and do some touristy things, opting to play it by ear. The weather also seemed unable to make up it’s mind, so we spent the day reading, walking around the island, and eating like kings.





Approaching storm that we decided to watch roll in
That evening, we found an abondoned-ish dock, walked out to the end, and watched the sunset. Seeing large clouds coming up from the east, we walked to the other side of the island to watch a storm make it’s way past. As we enjoyed watching it, we realized that it appeared to actually be coming towards us. Finally, we stood up to make our way back to the hostel, and 2 minutes into the walk the wind started rushing as the front moved overhead. Crap. The sprinkles started a few seconds later, and everyone began trotting instead of walking, but we knew the outcome of this game already. Seconds later, the wind was howling, the whooshing of the wind through the trees helped cover the sound of the rain that was now pouring out of the sky. We were back to our room a couple minutes later, but it didn’t matter, we were soaked.
Drying out, we started watching The Wolf of Wall Street [“Exactly like what working at Epic was like”, I quipped] and waiting for our bellies to have room for the next meal. I had been adamantly insisting that I wanted bad Chinese food from one of the Taiwanese restaurants, and made good on it. Except instead of bad Chinese food, it was incredible and authentic food that was the best I’d had since China.
We passed time waiting in a restaurant as the weather was uncooperative and we still had a few hours until the boat took us back to San Pedro [and from there to Sarteneja] We originally planned to take the 2:15 boat to San Pedro [30 minute ride] before the 3pm trip back to Sarteneja. Given that the 3pm was a once a day trip, and the weather was fairly rough, we opted to head back early to San Pedro. The ride back was very different from the ride out. Coming out we were on a large boat, filled with tons of people, reggae music blaring, open top shading some of the sun. The ride back was in a much smaller boat, windows shut against the wind and rain, the few people on board rocking sullen faces. We passed the remaining time in San Pedro at a deli out of the rain (sampling their meat pies).
As we sat on the boat to return to Sarteneja, we were happy to see Steve and Ryan boarding, happy to know they’d made it back in time. “This is the one going to Sarteneja, right?” they asked. “Yeah, this is it!” Bethany replied. “No, only to Corozol” said one of the workers on board as he wound rope around his arm. “Oh he’s joking!” Bethany cried, then turning to look at him, the smile slid from her face. “The weather is too bad. We can’t go to Sarteneja.” Said one of them. “Why, are you going to Sarteneja?” asked another. Four hands went up into the air. “ALL of you are going there? Sorry, but the chop is too bad.” Our options were either wait another day and hope the weather was good enough to get back then [no guarantee] or go all the way to Corozol, and then pray there was a a bus [not likely] or pay for a taxi for the 2 hour ride all the way back. The four of us looked at each other, resignation creeping across our faces. We all decided to chance it and figure it out in Corozol. “Can you check when we go by Sarteneja and see if we can stop?” Bethany asked them. “Sure, but don’t expect to stop.” came the reply. “Cross your fingers” another said.
Moving to the back from the middle due to water coming in through a bad seal, Bethany and I took the chop as well as we could. We briefly became optimistic as the chop seemed to decrease about an hour in, but that melted away pretty swiftly as we switched from taking the waves head-on to getting broadsided by them as the course shifted, the boat lurching left and right. Looking out the window, I kept seeing us tilt to the left, and would see the water lever rise precipitously high, coming almost level with the side of the boat, rogue sprays of water lashing the window. Ten minutes later, we lurched to the right, and we realized that the captain was giving the docking a shot. Hustling to the front, we began putting on our gear. The captain had to work pretty hard to compete with the waves, which we noticed were WAY higher than when we’d been swimming here just a few days prior. It took three men holding the ropes on the dock and the captain doing constant adjustments with the motors to keep it even decently level. “YOU GUYS READY?” one of the workers yelled over the engines and wind. “Yes!” the four of us yelled back, then were rushing up the steps and hopping out onto the dock, loud ‘Thank you!’s echoing from all of us. Ecstatic to be back, we didn’t mind the gusting wind or the rain falling down.


We made it!
Our enthusiasm was tempered a bit as we found Julio’s place on the other side of town. Lacking a proper shop to do work in, he’d been unable to work on our vehicle due to the rain and the huge amount of current running through the welder. He assured us he’d be able to take a stab at it if the weather cleared up the next day though.
Getting back to Natalie’s, we unloaded our stuff, and asked for an actual room to get out of the rain. Next up was tossing the rum into the fridge as we plugged it in, and to hop in the shower.
Feeling human again, we introduced ourselves to the new guests at the hostel. We met a couple of British girls who were traveling around Central America for awhile, and an Australian man traveling solo. They had all been trying to get to Caye Caulker & Belize City, but because of the rain hadn’t been able to leave Sarteneja. Bright and early the next morning, Julio #2 (the one with the truck) pulled in with 3 backpackers in tow. Aaron & Abby (from Australia & Canada, respectively), and Paul, also from Australia. They had been trying to come to Sarteneja, but had been stuck in Corozal because of the rain. Damn rainy season! All were able to hitch a ride because Natalie’s mom was visiting from Switzerland and was also hung up by the bad weather. Later that morning, Lana from South Africa showed up. We all had a great time that night pounding rum, and even saw a toad the size of a softball (or larger). Crazy stuff in the jungle!While we were out on Caye Caulker, Bethany developed a rash on her face and shoulders. A week later, and it’s still there. We don’t know if it’s a reaction to the malaria meds we started last week, or her sensitive skin reacting to the laundry detergent & soap from the hotel on the caye. Either way, no bueno. 

Friday we decided to bike out to the Shipstern Nature Reserve a few miles up the road from the hostel. We toured their butterfly house, then hiked back to their 5 story tower and looked out over the jungle canopy. 

Owl butterflies; pretty nifty self-defense!




‘built in five days without the aid of a crane!’  -eeep-

That afternoon we checked on Sweetcakes at Julio’s place. He had started the job, but clearly still had a lot to go. We hoped to have Sweetcakes back by mid-day so we could get back on the road. Finishing up dinner that evening around 7:30 we hear a vehicle roar in. Lo and behold, it was Julio returning Sweetcakes. Our baby’s back! 




We had planned to head directly to San Ignacio from Sarteneja, where we’d have the guys at Mad Dog Motors do some brake work for us. With the rain delay, that would have to wait until Monday, so we had a couple of days to kill. Saturday we set off back down the bumpy road (no loud squeaky squeaky this time), and made our way to the Community Baboon Sanctuary. We had a great guide, Shane, who told us about the history of the baboon sanctuary which was started in 1983 by the surrounding communities. His father and grandfather had been involved from the start. With a bit of patience, he was able to call down a family of howler monkeys (locals refer to howler monkeys as “baboons”, hence the name of the sanctuary) and we fed them a banana. Everything was great, until the end of the tour when he charged us more than double the going rate for some unknown reason ($17 USD instead of $7 USD). We should have pushed back, but you have to pick your battles…




We set off that night to camp at the education center near the Belize Zoo. We met a group of students and two professors from Penn State who were on a week long trip through Belize during their fall break. We also had our first tarantula sighting. Turns out we should be more afraid of the wasps. A giant blue and black wasp (1.5 inches long) was dragging a tarantula along the road. Eeep. Awhile back at Nerd Nite we had heard about a wasp that essentially paralyzed its prey, drug the prey into a hole, layed its eggs inside the prey, and used the prey’s body as nutrients for it and the young. Perhaps this is the fate of this tarantula? I kinda feel bad for the little guy (not really). Here’s a pic we found online of a similar situation:
Thoroughly creeped out, we made sure our tent was tightly zipped that night! The next morning was a pleasant visit to the Belize Zoo, which started in the ’80s as an animal rescue. This was by far the best zoo we have visited. All animals are native to Belize, and all are rescues. When possible, the animals are rehabilitated and released into the wild. Those that can’t have a home at the zoo. Here are a few pics.

White-tailed deer. What is up with those horns?


Tapir. Check out his feet! We learned Tapirs are related to rhinos and horses, not anteaters.


Spider monkey!


Our favorite was this young ocelot. Reminded us of our cat, Hammer. So playful!


The colors of the Toucan are unreal! 




Same with the Scarlet Macaw. Looks like he had paint dumped on him! This bird crawled down off his perch, along the fence, right in front of our faces. Then surprised us both by saying “Hello,” as if it were the most normal thing in the world.


Another spider monkey, showing off his goods.


Harpy eagle.


Hey there, mr. crocodile.


The Jaguar yawns just like Hammer!




A black jaguar.  ‘Lucky Boy’ was rescued near-death suffering from starvation and disease.  There were serious concerns he wouldn’t make it, and there was additional work to prevent his pacing he did from being in a small cage. 

After the zoo we rolled on over to San Ignacio, which is near the border with Guatemala. Driving into town we couldn’t help but recall our honeymoon 4 years ago, where San Ignacio was our first stop. We set up camp at Mana Kai on the edge of town. Monday morning we dropped off our car at Mad Dog Motors. We needed our rear o-rings replaced, an oil change, and a second set of eyes to look at Julio’s weld job. They told us they could finish the repairs that day, perfecto! We returned that afternoon and found out that one of our wheel bearings was bad, so that would take a bit more time to fix and of course more $$. No problem, we can roll with that. Ike -walked back up the hill to the mechanics at 5pm to pick up the car. Just as he walked into the parking lot, the mechanic came roaring in with Sweetcakes, holding a piece of plastic. He had taken her out for a test drive and a 14 year old kid without a drivers license came roaring down a dirt road going 60 mph. The mechanic gunned it to get out of the way, but the kid ended up hitting our rear swingout, bending the heavy-duty iron and pushing it into our rear bumper. The mechanic had followed the kid home, so after returning Sweetcakes to the shop, he went to yell at the kid and his father, who returned with him to the shop and agreed to pay for the repairs. Our poor baby! We are thankful that the damage was to the rear swingout and not the body of our car. If the mechanic had not gunned it, we would probably have a totaled car and would be sitting here thinking of how we could continue our trip. 



She just can’t catch a break! [or a brake! HAH! CAR JOKES] 






Luckily our new friends Bryan & Sarah from Chicago kept our minds off of Sweetcakes’ injuries for the evening. We had a great time cooking fried rice and swapping nerdy book recommendations with them. If we all look sweaty in the picture, it’s because we are. Ike and I were chugging water all day and sweating out just as much. I don’t know how we’re going to survive as we head south.



This morning we take full advantage of another meal in San Ignacio: breakfast at Eva’s of stuffed fry jacks!



Now, with Sweetcakes fixed, we’re on our way out of town and off to Guatemala! 

—————————–

Belize budget recap:
This can be a bit skewed as we were only here a week and a half [and had only planned on a week]
Daily budget: $60 USDActual expenses: $72 USDDifference: $12 or 19.5%  [not including car work, which is tracked separately]
Average price for gas: $5.28/gal – but we only filled up once.
MPG, miles driven v. expected are getting cut because Belize is so small.
Biggest daily expenses ($/day):#1: Food – $28 [lots of eating out and alcohol]#2: Parking / taxis / tolls – $12 [exclusively boat rides to and from Caye Caulker]#3: Lodging – $11

Thoughts on Belize: Belize is a popular tourist destination for Americans already.  It speaks English, everywhere takes US dollars [and it’s fixed at $2 BZE to $1 USD], there are direct flights into Belize City and local flights to some of the harder to reach places, and has great beaches.  We love Belize and encourage people to visit; it’s cheaper than Hawaii!  The multiculturalism here is amazing: Creole, Mayans, Mennonites, Latinos, Tawainese all living together and creating a fun country with a great vibe.  It’s the only place [so far!] where we could seriously see ourselves living.

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Off The Beaten Path……again!



Our time in El Salvador was short but sweet. We’ve been making a routine of finding trios of volcanoes to sleep under. Our first stop was a recommended campsite from the iOverlander site, which has become very useful to our…

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Machu Picchu



There are several ways to get to Machu Picchu, and all of them sound like great options. We can ride the bikes out to Santa Teresa and then either ride or hike or take a taxi to the Hydroelectric dam… Read More ›

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Een kleine wereld



Namibië is wat natuurschoon betreft een bijzonder en bijna ongelofelijk prachtig land. Wat we een klein beetje missen is de kakofonie van West-Afrika, de kleurrijke markten, de mensen en de glimlach. Na twee maanden natuurschoon rijden we naar MataMata. Het is de grensplaats tussen Namibië en Zuid-Afrika  én de toegangspoort voor het Kgalakgadi transfrontier NP. We hebben niets gereserveerd en hebben nu pech, de camping in het centrale deel van het park en in de richting van Botswana zit voorlopig vol. Het plan om het park tot in Botswana in te rijden moeten we laten vallen en kamperen de verplichte twee nachten op camping ‘twee rivieren’ aan de rand van het park aan Zuid-Afrikaanse zijde. We rijden kilometers door het park over de rode zandduinen en langs de waterpunten. Het is mooi, we genieten weer van de grote kuddes antilopen, wildebeesten, struisvogels en de roofvogels, helaas zien we de grote roofdieren deze keer niet. Bij de uitgang van het park is ook de douane en de immigratie. Er hangt een grote poster met aanwijzingen voor het voorkomen van Ebola en voordat we het visum in het paspoort gestempeld krijgen moeten we een gezondheidsverklaring invullen….nee,  we hebben geen koorts en grieperig zijn we ook niet en dan…. zijn we in de provincie Noordkaap in Zuid-Afrika.
Omdat er zoveel verhalen rondgaan over de (on)veiligheid gaan we eerst een paar dagen naar de camping in het stadje Upington. Het is de eerste camping sinds Kamanjab, het is er mooi groen, er is een groot zwembad en een apenkolonie van meer dan honderd apen. We slapen heerlijk maar worden om half zes wakker van gebonk op het dak van de auto. We doen het gordijntje open en kijken recht in drie apenbekkies…ze schrikken zich rot. We gaan naar buiten en zien de jonge apen vanuit de bomen op het plastic zeil van de reservebanden springen, het werkt als een trampoline. Het is een grappig gezicht maar het zijn er wel héél veel. Ze springen ook op de zonnepanelen en schijten de hele boel onder. Peter gaat er met de waterslang op af en probeert de apen van de auto af te spuiten maar dat vinden ze helemaal een leuk spelletje. Ik probeer ondertussen wat foto’s te maken; het helpt…. de apen zijn doodsbang voor de camera en vijf minuten later…geen apen meer maar ook geen foto’s. Het wordt druk op de camping, er wordt een vrijgezellenfeest gehouden, de autoradio’s staan voluit te blèren en de afvalcontainers puilen uit van de lege drankflessen. Elk kwartier rijdt er een óf een politieauto, óf een ‘security’-auto óf een auto van de ‘wetshandhaving’ over het terrein. Geen idee wat ze precies handhaven. We praten samen over de route die voor ons ligt en of we nu wel of niet gaan wildkamperen…we gaan richting de kust en gaan wildkamperen.
In een paar dagen rijden we via Brandvlei, Calvinia en Clanwilliam naar het dorpje Elandsbaai aan de kust. De weg is prima maar wel rijden we langs honderden kilometers hekken. Iedere avond zoeken we een plekje…we gaan van de grote weg af en kamperen dan in het ‘veld’…heerlijk rustig. Er gaat geen dag voorbij zonder dat we elkaar aankijken en zeggen…wat is het toch een prachtig land. Van de rode Kalahari duinen gaat het landschap over in wijngaarden in de omgeving van Upington, fijnbos in Calvina en velden rooibosthee in Clanwilliam. Elandsbaai is maar een minidorpje maar wel een met een prachtig strand. Twee politiemannen komen een kijkje nemen, ze vinden het wat zo’n auto in hun dorp…blijf….zolang je wilt en alweer slapen we heerlijk en voelen ons veilig. In het dorpje ‘Dwarskersbos’ ook aan de kust hebben we de deur nog niet open of vier jongetjes stormen naar binnen. Ze zijn twee, vier, zes en acht jaar en beginnen direct te ratelen, kletsen de oren van ons hoofd. Wij vinden het gezellig.  De ouders komen na tien minuten wat verlegen vragen of ze lastig zijn…en kamperen…hartstikke veilig hier.  Langebaan, aan de kust, grenzend aan het Westcoast national park ligt tweehonderd kilometer ten noorden van Kaapstad en veel Capetonians hebben er een tweede huis. Terwijl we kamperen in de straten van Langebaan krijgen we weer veel aanloop van vriendelijke mensen. Het is hier niet te vergelijken met het Afrika van de afgelopen maanden. We zien een ontwikkeld en modern land ….de asfaltwegen, de supermarkten, de prachtige huizen, hotels en restaurants. Zelfs sommigen sloppenwijken zie je veranderen van een opeenhoping golfplaten krotten in keurige rijen met stenen huisjes. Er staan overal afvalcontainers en er is in ieder dorp een vuilnisophaaldienst en een buurtwacht. We maken een mooie wandeling door het nationale park en staan dan voor een keuze….rechtstreeks naar Kaapstad óf via een omweg…
Ruim zeven maanden geleden hebben we in Marrakesh en door tragische omstandigheden een Nederlander leren kennen: Alger. Bij het afscheid toen zei de man; wanneer jullie aankomen in Zuid-Afrika ga dan even langs bij Ria en Wim en doe hen de groeten van me. We denken met regelmaat terug aan dat moment in Marokko. Kaapstad lonkt maar we rijden landinwaarts richting Montagu aan de route 62. Het is een prachtige bergachtige, groene route. We maken een tussenstop in Worcester en Robertson, bekijken de historische panden en wandelen door straten gevuld met de in bloei staande Jacaranda-bomen. Ook Montagu is een prachtig dorpje, omringd door bergen en wijngaarden. We kloppen onaangekondigd aan bij het huis van Ria en Wim en niet veel later zitten aan een ‘bakkie’. Ze zijn 74 en 68 jaar en wonen al veertien jaar  in Montagu….om nooit weer weg te gaan…in dit dorp willen we oud worden…en ondertussen krijgen we van Ria veel toeristische tips.
Na de eerste kennismaking horen we verhalen over eerdere reizen en hun allereerste reis naar Afrika 27 jaar geleden. Dat was een groepsreis laat Wim weten…hé dat klinkt bekend!…over land van Amsterdam naar Kenia en in een Mercedes vrachtwagen…hé, dat klinkt ook bekend….enne zo gaat Wim verder….die gast die het organiseerde ging zelf niet mee…had net een eerste kindje gekregen….nou ja dat klinkt wel héél bekend. Zevenentwintig jaar geleden hebben wij een groepsreis naar Afrika georganiseerd…over land van Amsterdam naar Kenia in een Mercedes vrachtwagen. Het was de tweede door ons georganiseerde reis. Zelf zijn we toen vanwege de geboorte van onze eerste kindje niet mee gegaan. Aan het eind van de reis is Peter samen met vriend Falco naar Kenia gevlogen en heeft de vrachtwagen in  Zaïre verkocht.…En dan nu zitten we aan de koffie in Zuid-Afrika met twee deelnemers van die door ons georganiseerde reis van 27 jaar geleden. Wat een bizar toeval en wat een kleine wereld.
En dan op naar Kaapstad, campings zijn er alleen op 20 km of meer buiten het centrum maar gelukkig kennen we de stad een beetje.  Vijf jaar geleden werkte dochter Anne, de baby van 27 jaar geleden, een jaar in Kaapstad en zijn wij onze reis hier min of meer begonnen. Drie maanden en alleen Zuid-Afrika in een huurauto. Nu vijf jaar later rijden we in onze vrachtwagen, na een reis van ruim zeven maanden via West-Afrika, de stad binnen. In de wijk ‘Seapoint’ vinden we in een rustige straat tussen de boulevard en de winkelstraat  een mooie parkeerplek.  Het weer is prachtig…strak blauw en 27 graden en het eerste deel van de reis door Afrika zit er bijna op.

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Monday, 24 November 2014

If you’re tired of Buenos Aires, try harder



Villa La Angostura, Argentina [by Paula] We arrived in Buenos Aires on an overnight ferry, bleary-eyed and begging for more sleep, and things pretty much continued that way until we left a month later. BA is the kind of city that you gorge on until you feel a bit sick. So many atmospheric bars, quality […]

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Travelling from Jericoacoara to Lençois Maranhenses, day 1



Into Jericoacoara Is driving your own vehicle into Jericoacoara really not allowed? The Lonely Planet Brazil guide says traffic is restricted, but despite having travelled through Jeri yesterday, we still aren’t sure about the regulations. On…

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Travelling from Jericoacoara to Lençois Maranhenses, day 2



Traveling the beach Jericoacoara to Camoçin
We woke the morning after we’d been sent out of Jericoacoara to discover that the fishing boats that we’d parked between were mostly gone. I’d heard a few men at 4am and gotten up to have a look (I’d realised they were fisherman come for the boats), but I couldn’t see the activity in the dark. 

We calculated that if we made an early start we’d beat the high tide, so off we went. The beach driving was great and pretty soon we turned inland to take a ferry across a creek. The ferry was more like a raft, part powered by small motor, and part by shunt. There were 2 men each with a raft trying desparately to get us to float with them. We asked ‘how much weight does it carry’. The answer scared me, because instead of just answering the man carefully considered our vehicle first. ‘4000 kilograms’. From his careful consideration I wondered if he was thinking ‘gee, if I say 3,500 maybe they’ll turn around… Better jack it up to 4000′. 
Anyway, we went and it was fine, the raft stayed just above water!

The boatmen told us to follow the tyre marks through woody mangroves, and we carefully manoeuvred under low branches (we need about 3m clearance). The white sand looked like snow, but the high temperature kept it real. 
Then it was back onto a stretch of beach before cutting across low dunes to make a low tide creek crossing just a bit inland. At this point there were black pigs and piglets everywhere. Maybe you don’t know how much I like pigs, just seeing them makes my day better.

Over the creek there was a small village , with a Dutchman running a guesthouse for kite-surfers who caught up with us and greeted us (in Dutch). Soon we were invited in for coffee and to meet the other Dutch people. This was great because we needed to wait out high tide anyhow. 

Apparently, some other Dutch overlanders (H knows them) passed here 3 years ago, but aside from that they don’t see so many overlanders going by. 

After a while the people of ‘Portal do Venta’ (the kite-surfers guesthouse) had work to do, so we took a dip in their pool, said farewell, and headed to the waterfront for lunch. The first Dutchman (Marcel) also gave us a lot of instructions for the next part of the trip. 

Marcel’s instructions were wonderful to have, but we still got bogged. We were stuck in mixed sand and mud, and it took us about an hour to get unstuck. But!, we should never have gotten bogged!

Whilst travelling up the beach, if the sand surface was ‘easy’ Hendrik would switch the vehicle to 2 wheel drive. When we first bogged down into the sand I said ‘Are we in four wheel drive?’, ‘yes’ came the reply without looking. (Note, Hendrik is a really good driver, but if you question his driving too much you get a grumpy Hendrik). 

He tried again, we bogged down more in the rear. He got out and started digging, I took photos and then decided to collect bits of timber for support. When he had dug enough and put some timbers in he decided to try again. This time I was watching. ‘Your front wheels aren’t turning’ I said. ‘Mmmm’ he said with an acknowledging nod. I re-stated ‘your front wheels aren’t even trying to turn’. He replied with something about diff locks. 

By then we already had 4 men on motorbikes who’d turned up and were helping with the digging, getting of timber and placing it. Finally H decided to try again. The front wheels turned too, and out we went. H came around to me and said quietly ‘ya know why we got stuck and couldn’t get out?, we were in two wheel drive still’. That’s H, he’d hate for anybody to think that Blac wasn’t up to the task when he was at fault.  

I thanked the 4 men, offered them cans of coke for refreshment, and we were off again. 

Another turn off the beach and we arrived at another ferry to take us over the river to the large town of Camoçin. The ferry took 2 vehicles at a time, and a Hilux utility was already loaded. They told us we were heavy and offered to take us across for Rs50. ‘How much is a regular car?’ Hendrik asked. ‘Rs25′. 
We reluctantly agreed, figuring that yes we are heavy and they’d need to take us without any other vehicle, ie, a private transfer, since normally they took 2 cars at Rs25 each, and they were charging us Rs50 (the equivalent of 2 cars). But, no they wanted us to board with the utility. We refused, and told them we’d wait, they could take us alone. 

Crazy as it was, when they came back for us they still directed H to drive to one side of the ferry. It was a scary crossing as the ferry rocked and Blac rocked even more, I really thought we’d lose everything!

That was enough adventure for one day. We decided to do the next few kilometres on the tar road, and rested overnight at a petrol station at Pernaiba. 






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Travelling from Jericoacoara to Lençois Maranhenses, day 3



From Parnaiba, an attempt to get to Berreirinhas

We took the tar as far as Paulino Neves. Then, it seemed that all we had to do was drive just 40 kilometres of 4wd track on beach and dunes. So, we set off… It was about 11am and we thought we’d be in Berreirinhas in time for a sunset tour!

However, we didn’t get far before we found ourselves before a dune that Blac couldn’t climb over. H tried it a couple of times, but we couldn’t even get close. 

So we turned back. On our return we stopped at another vehicle that was broken down (locals) and we asked if there was another way around. They indicated yes, but you return to town first. 

So we continued back to town. In town a tourist tout (who happened to tell us previously that we’d never make it) told us that there was another way and that he could get us a guide, since we wouldn’t find it on any maps, or in a GPS. 

Hendrik didn’t want a guide. He zoomed in on the GPS and found another track that would lead us past the waterholes (and therefore past that dune) on the other side. We headed off. 

It was slow going. First we took a wrong turn and found ourselves in the town rubbish dump! The right track, through the scrub, was barely wide enough for Blac, in fact he got a few scratches (but what’s a 4×4 without scratches?), it was mostly soft sand with a few hills. 

Blac wasn’t liking the hard work in the heat (who does?), and it was about every kilometre that we were adding another 2-3 litres of water to the radiator. This was not good, and I worried that we’d run out of water. 

It was always hard to know which path to take, there were many tracks in the sand. We soon left the GPS guiding, because one other track was clearly much more used. 

This led us to a small village that wasn’t in the maps or GPS, we asked for water and were directed to the creek. What we found was a beautiful oasis, a clear fresh water creek, a bar, and a little bit of parking space. We decided to stay the night! The place was all the more spectacular because there wasn’t any rubbish in sight! This is rare in Brazil. 

We bathed, in the river (as did the townsfolk, and there were more private areas to access), and we filled up our water tanks and Blac’s radiator. It was also good to know we had a suitable camp (we couldn’t really stop overnight on a road barely wide enough for one vehicle), and could travel at a cooler time, in the morning). 

Of course, we still hadn’t made it to Barreirinhas, but we were enjoying our adventure so much that it didn’t matter. 

If you want to find the oasis (the town had a name, but I don’t know it), here are the coordinates:
S02•49.457′
W042•32.733′
(I can’t find a degree symbol on my device, so I hope this makes sense.)







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Travelling from Jericoacoara to Lençois Maranhenses, day 4



From the gorgeous oasis to touring Parque Nacional Lençois Maranhenses. 

First, I want to say that Hendrik was doing all this driving just for me. After our failed dune crossing on day 3 of this adventure he didn’t want to go to Barreirinhas: he felt the dunes in Lençois Maranhenses would be just the same as the ones where we couldn’t pass so he didn’t want to bother with them. 

I, on the other hand, felt that the Lençois Maranhenses must be spectacular and I wanted to go. We’d even discussed me catching the bus service (in the back of a Toyota ute) over the route we had failed on and doing the tour and coming back again in one day while H waited. But in the end it was H who found the alternative route and decided we’d do it. 

After our wonderful oasis stop the journey wasn’t such hard work for Blac. The track was extremely rough and slow going, but much harder (as opposed to soft sand), and with travelling earlier the day was cooler too. It took us another 5 hours, but we got to Barreirinhas. 

I booked myself on the Lagoa Bonita tour, 2-7pm. H said he’d wait, and clean the car. 

Well, the Parque Nacional dos Lençois Maranhenses is spectacular! Nothing like the dunes we’d already seen: not those at Paulino Neves, Jericoacoara, or Mangue Seco. I swam in a lake in the dunes, the guide took me for a walk and explained lots to me, and I loved it!

I didn’t take a lot of pictures (wind blowing sand into moving parts of cameras isn’t good for them, I’ve learnt), but here’s a couple. 



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